Malvon, A Favorite
Malvon is a favorite, but I use the word ‘favorite’ far too often, which negates its correctness. This funky, run-down house in Villa Crespo serves up a noteworthy weekend brunch, and we all know: brunch is my favorite favorite.
In a city where I often wander the streets hungry, unable to find anything that I want to eat, Malvon is my favorite because everything on their menu is delicious; a little bit familiar, like the cornbread muffins, and a little bit different, like strawberry butter.
Food aside, this place has style. Behind the tinted glass windows, the dining room is eclectically furnished with leftover chairs and mix-matched tables from past generations. I love the reappropriation of domestic architecture turned bakery. Malvon maintains that home-like feel and plays upon my nostalgia for weekend brunch with the family. The white metal furnishings remind me of my grandmother’s patio and the little porcelain knick knacks, old articles in gaudy gold frames, rotting books, and empty wine bottles paint the landscape of my etherial brunch dream. I can’t exactly place or define their style into my broader scheme of reference. That’s why its my favorite.
The menu made for great reading. Absolutely everything on it appealed to my appreciation for familiar dishes, presented in an unexpected way. The American influence is quite apparent with the inclusion of dishes on their menu like Louisiana Ribs, Whoopie Pies and gluten free options, and also in the language of the menu. The chai tea was described as ‘bien spicy’. They’ve invented a new genre of eclectic culinary fusion: NYC meets NoLA and Norway in Buenos Aires.
And the brunch made for good eats. Highlights included:
Mango Lassi – an irresistible out-of-season order for me, described as a ‘Hindu smoothie’ of natural yogurt and mango.
Fritatta Frances – Eggs with mushrooms sautéed in salvia butter, with arugula and brie cheese served in a hot skillet.
Delicate pancakes topped with red currant coulis.
Popover: Crispy and hollow masa hueca, filled with poached egg, tomato, avocado, fresh herbs and grated cheese.
While I have no intention of ever using the word ‘favorite’ according to its intended definition, I will assert that Malvon is a favorite because it keeps me coming back. That’s how you know it’s a favorite, you return.
- Serrano 789